Let’s pretend for speculative purposes only, that the ‘end of the world as we know it’ has just blown up in our faces two weeks ago. The cities of any size across the country are in ruin, decimated by looting, riots and general inner city mayhem that we see on the news more often every day as the welfare system collapses and the unfortunate people who have been chained to the democrat party plantation for generations have wised up and ‘left the farm’. All the flat screen TV’s and designer shoes are long gone, and what food, water and useful supplies that didn’t get taken in the last few days may be scattered all over the ruined stores and businesses.
Your pretend group was more prepared than some, but now those who have less than the rest of you must either start begging for spare food or the group has to ‘go shopping’. So, what to do and how would we think of replenishing or gathering supplies now that the world is a really nasty and hostile place?
From my book Surviving Urban Crisis, I’m going to expand and detail some points on traveling and gathering supplies in such bad times, if they existed. In the book, I illustrated a few ways to do vehicle convoys and such. Now, let’s go over teams on foot.
My best theory in this fictional situation, is to make up three man teams or squads if you will. The ‘best’ version would be three people, not necessarily always men, who know each other and have some understanding of working together. Each ‘ideal’ team member will be counting on each other, truly up to trusting their lives to the other members. In my opinion the three man team would be the best and most efficient use of manpower in such times and / or missions. Those with actual military experience, especially urban warfare, SWAT teams or whatever, could be priceless in training members of the group to work in such environments, and should volunteer to lead a squad each. An ideal scenario would be that all three are buddies, have some urban military experience or at least military of some kind, all three have the same weapons platform or at least shoot the same ammo. Each man should have a generous backpack, but only equipped with the absolute basics for a short term mission, such as a couple bottles of water, some rations for 24 hours, dress for the weather and 3 or 4 magazines of ammo. Each weapon, ideally, should be equipped with an ‘aim-point’ style optic and a mounted, very bright LED flashlight with a switch that can be operated momentarily or steady on as the situation needs. Any battery operated device should ideally be operated with common, readily available types, like AA or AAA . Sights I prefer use ambient daylight to ‘power’ the sighting dot, like THIS ONE. Works well in a very wide range of lighting, and has battery operation for pretty near dark situations. Got some body armor? By all means, wear it.
Now, assuming the team has had transportation to or near to the destination where some supplies may be had, we’ll discuss movement through the landscape, then up to, alongside of and into buildings.
In the illustration below, I’m showing the strength of the 3 man concept, in that properly done, the crew has all angles of defense and attack covered as they navigate overland. Assuming the direction of travel, shown with the bold arrow, is ‘ahead’, then the point man (#1) has that covered, obviously, as he sweeps his field of view, 180° from his left to his right. But also the left (#2) and right (#3) man, keeping a pace or so back from the point man, sweeping constantly also, in 180° segments of their field of view, help the general direction forward, while watching the left and right flanks and rear at the same time.
Be advised that this tactic, working in some situations, should be adaptable to the situation, in that sometimes we may want a tight group like this, and other times we may want a dozen people strung out 100 yards apart, if line of sight permitted, if there were suspected ambush situations possible. In that kind of travel, the point man would signal to the group of spotted trouble ahead, before the whole group stumbled into a mess. It is absolutely essential that the crew should be wearing, at the best choice, electronic ear muffs, in case of having to fire weapons for whatever reasons require so. The beauty of these type muffs is that you can hear normal volume sound, such as soft talking among the crew or some sound that would cause an alert. A high powered weapon going off near your head will put you out of useful activity PDQ, even sometimes while wearing hearing protection. If no fancy muffs are available, then use regular ear plugs. Discuss with your crew members how each man is to respond, position wise, should firing weapons be necessary, while making it to concealment or cover. As in man #1 remains standing or crouching slightly while #2 and #3 take a knee if firing in the same direction, remembering that dangerous muzzle blast. Hearing protection also brings up a point of communicating quietly on patrol. Use hand signals, exaggerated ‘lip reading’ or whatever it takes with your crew members to communicate, so there’s no ‘WHAT DID YOU SAY?’ just before you go to breach an unlocked door! Practice this stuff before you need it and have it down before you go into the field.
So, our pretend group has now navigated to the vicinity of a typical urban situation. Now the trio must shift formation somewhat, in that the point man stays ahead, the #2 man becomes the middle and the #3 man brings up the rear as they pass between buildings. Pick a side of the street, and hug the walls of the building you pass. As they go along, the whole trio and especially the #2 man, shifts their attention to the windows and rooftops of the building on the opposite side of the street they’re traveling on as they progress ahead. Should you encounter a window or door on your side of the street or alleyway, go under the windows and scout the doorways very carefully before you pass, or perhaps use that opportunity to enter the building you’re walking past.
In this fashion, the trio can move forward, backward, through a doorway or window very efficiently, however the moment dictates.
Now, as far as entering buildings….this is where it gets frisky. Regardless of time of day, in a power down situation, it will be darker inside the building or room than outside. When you go rushing into such a place, you’ll be blinded for some moments because your eyes must adjust to this darker environment. My way to cope with this problem is as follows….IF you have time to plan ahead for a few minutes, there’s a simple solution to coping with going from outdoor sunlight, into a typically dark indoor room or space. What you merely need to do is close your primary eye (the one you aim with) for a couple minutes before you go rushing into whatever is waiting for you in there. Everyone on the team must do this. This gives you as much advantage as possible as you pull this operation, for if you can see, you can shoot, assess the situation or whatever has to happen in the next minute. It’s not possible to ‘quietly’ knock down a door, so you might as well bust on in there if the door is locked, if the crew agrees that this entry may prove useful. On the other hand, checking to see if it’s locked will save some wear and tear on the crew should you luck up and find it unlocked. In either case, keep that primary eye shut until you’re inside. Speaking of eyes, the crew should be wearing clear eye protection when on patrol and going into buildings. Sunglasses types are OK for in the field action, but you need to switch when going indoors.
OK, now our fictitious situation has our crew inside the building, the place is a mess, stuff busted all over the place and it’s pretty dark way back from the windows. Some places may have a few skylights, but many don’t. There are few places that may not yield something of use with a thorough search, even if it’s been looted of the usual crap they take first. Look in back rooms, under counters, all over the floors in darker areas. Batteries, tools, ammo maybe….consider everything you run across, for your groups needs or for possible barter. Generally speaking, your priority will be food and medicines. During the early days of the end of the world, cans you find with a dent will still be safe, but if this is months after doomsday, dented cans may be suspect. And if it’s a rusty or swollen up can, don’t even bother, a bulging can is a sure sign of serious botulism contamination. I suggest avoiding glass jars of stuff because of the possibility of it being broken by rough treatment on the way back to your stronghold. If it’s worth the gamble, of course go for it, just try to secure it from breakage if you can, maybe in a side pocket of your pack. See the illustration below to study moving in a sweep, maintaining security while gathering.
The team approaches an isle, maintaining the fire path sweeping as they move, just like when outside, lights on if necessary. Searching inside dark buildings would also be enhanced by using LED headlamps to free up your hands to the task. Now as below, the team moves down the row, with #1 and #3 covering the ends with #2 gathers whatever may be of use. Don’t turn your nose up at dog and cat food if that’s all you can find. It’s the same basic food groups as humans eat….just the quality of meat or fish cuts ain’t up to par, and some tell me that cat food, for instance, is ‘OK’ but very salty. It’ll keep you alive.
Now if it’s slim pickings on this isle, the crew moves on around to the next, using the same sweep method.
Should you be lucky enough to fill up #2 backpack, swap members like #1 becomes the middle man, #2 takes point, etc, keep moving and rotating until everyone is as loaded up as they can manage.
Make your way out with your triangle pattern, alleyway movement, and so forth until back to base or your transportation, which should have been guarded if possible, by the way. If you have a trio of QUIET dirt bikes or motorcycles, you could possibly cut overland. If your bike has gutted, loud pipes that can be heard a mile away, don’t bother unless you want to give away your position to anybody that’s a good shot who can hear your coming from that far off.
Another idea, if gas and vehicle availability allow, a good thing could be a crew-cab pickup truck, preferably with a cover over the bed and a 5 man crew. This would allow a very short trip turn around time from found supplies to a stash dump in the back of the truck and back in for continued harvesting, while 2 men stand guard at the truck to keep it covered, one man at opposite corners of the truck, front and rear. While traveling in this truck, assumed in a small convoy if possible, the crew positioning inside the truck could be done as I describe in my book for maximum firepower coverage while on the move.
The above article sounds very useful to have in one’s survival medicine pantry. Based on a prescription only product (silver sulfadiazine 1%) which seems to have worked wonders for the author of the article for a serious scalding burn incident, the home made version they list their ingredients for seems to work about as well for them. IF you are allergic to silver or its derivatives, do NOT use either product.
There are numerous silver products on the market, some of which sound pretty much the same as the prescription product or their home grown recipe. Surviving Urban Crisis First Aid
Wild Edible Plants: Dandelion. A video (one of many) by Dan Corcoran
Hmm. All those wasted salads I’ve mowed down…What a shame! I suggest you check out Dan’s site and his free videos on wild foods.
No, really, part of our survival skills should absolutely have gathering wild foods as one the best to keep us alive. The average American would starve to death with wild food all around them. And short of having a live instructor to show us what is food vs. what is poison, excellent reference books and video productions like Dan’s are out there with details, recipes and advise.
We have here excellent guides to harvesting mushrooms and with close examination of the specimen and a top rated book, one can be reasonably certain that what you’ve positively identified is safe to eat. Preferably, of course, is to have an expert show you first hand, in person so you can see it’s environment, dig it up, pry it loose, smell it, touch it, and be sure with what’s what with what you got, toss it or toast it, broil it or bake it.
Wild food is around us even in cities, so sharpen up, spot ’em and stay alive.
OK, let’s do some prepping for the ‘throwdown’ between my Winchester 94AE Trapper, 16″ barrel lever gun and that Rossi 24″ barrel lever gun (both are in .357 magnum) I recently acquired and see if the data says which is going to shoot better.
I took what data I could find from the Lee Precision website for their fine pistol bullet casting molds and used that data on a useful ballistics page, JBM Ballistics. This information implies that the Rossi M92 may out shoot the Winchester, based on these ‘stability figures’ below. For those not into reloading or ‘hand loading’ their own ammunition, this may be new information. If you cast and load your own, as I do, then this is some hopefully useful data (or braggin’ rights) on lever gun brand and performance.
LEE PRECISION .358″ DIAMETER BULLET / MOLD BALLISTIC INFO.
Mold # DC 358-105-SWC
.358 diameter 105 grain Semi Wad Cutter.
Ballistic Coefficient = .106
Bullet Overall Length = .510 inches.
Distance from the crimp groove to the nose of the bullet = .295 inches.
Winchester 94 16″ barrel, 18.5″ twist, 1100 FPS: 4.265
Rossi 92, 24″ barrel, 30″ twist, 1100 FPS: 1.666
I used the same rifle information above on all these stability figures, with an assumed speed of 1100 feet per second out the barrels, so only the weight and length of the bullets is a variation in the calculations.
.358 diameter 125 grain round flat nose bullet.
Ballistic Coefficient = .116
Bullet Overall Length = .540 inches.
Distance from the crimp groove to the nose of the bullet = .275 inches.
DC 358-148 WC
.358 diameter 148 grain Wad Cutter (the ‘soup can’ bullet)
Ballistic Coefficient .072
Bullet Overall Length = .577 inches
Distance from crimp groove to the nose of the bullet = .105 inches
.358 diameter 150 grain round nose
Ballistic Coefficient .131
Bullet Overall Length = .643 inches
Distance from crimp groove to the nose of the bullet = .288 inches
DC TL 358-158 SWC
.358 diameter 158 grain Semi Wad Cutter, tumble lube bullet.
Bullet Coefficient .117
Bullet Overall Length = .665 inches
Distance from bullet nose to the top edge of the first driving ring = .275 inches
DC C358-158 SWC
.358 diameter 158 grain Semi Wad Cutter
Bullet overall length = .710 inches
This is a gas checked (the copper cap on the bottom of the bullet) cast bullet that can be pushed faster than plain based bullets.
.358 diameter 158 grain round nose, tumble lube bullet.
Ballistic Coefficient .207
Bullet Overall Length = .710 inches
Distance from the bullet nose to the top edge of the first driving ring = .245 inches
.358 diameter 158 grain round nose.
Ballistic Coefficient .160
Bullet Overall Length = .630 inches
Distance from the crimp groove to the nose of the bullet = .360 inches
The stability figure is the Miller stability factor, from JBM Ballistics. This formula was derived by Don Miller and published in Precision Shooting. This formula is much better than the antiquated Greenhill’s formula. Stability value should be in the range of 1.3 to 2.0 to ensure bullet stability, they say. So, based on this information, the Rossi “should be” fairly accurate, shooting these Lee cast bullets, loaded per your favorite gunpowder manufacturer data to near the top end of the pistol lead bullet data for that weight bullet.
The gas check type can be just a tad faster out of the barrel because of the cap on the base protecting it. I run all my bullets through a lube sizer machine and apply ‘carnauba red’ lube from White Label Lube unless it’s a Lee TL tumble lube bullet. On those I use a 50/50 mix of Johnson’s Paste Floor Wax and Lee liquid Alox, heating up the bullets just until uncomfortable to hold in my hand, dumping them and the mix into a large, plastic coffee container, the red round type with the side flats to make it easy to hold. The warm bullets help spread the material around as they tumble. The flats ensure the bullets get a good tumble as I roll the container along on my loading bench top, while HOLDING ON THE LID. I don’t trust that cheesy plastic snap on lid to hold in 10 pounds of bullets rolling around in sticky wax / lube. After they’re well covered, I place them on wax paper, on their bases, to allow the mix to dry out.
After running through the lubri-sizer, a typical gas checked bullet will look similar to these, where the ‘grease groove’ has been filled with a waxy material that helps reduce leading of the barrel when we’re shooting.
The Lee tumble lube bullet gets a coating of the lube all over it, including it’s tiny grooves, so they’re not shiny on the nose of the cartridge, and are a bit sticky (and a little funky looking). I wipe off the base of the bullet before I load them, when tumble lubed, as I don’t want gunpowder all stuck to the base. I’m sometimes concerned that these sticky jokers may collect some sand on them, should they ever be dropped on the ground during a loading of a weapon.
So, anyway, off we go to the range and we’ll see about that Rossi and bullet stability.
This blog post may be a bit like a ‘romance novel’, in that it revolves around a long search, a found jewel (turns out not so much), bitter disappointment, work to redeem fallen favor, and life afterwards, with adventures in D.I.Y. gunsmithing (PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK WITH ANY GUNSMITHING. IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING, DON’T MESS WITH IT!).
What are you babbling about, Silas? Well, it’s like this. For months, I’ve been saving my pennies and had sufficient funds to go find myself a new shootin’ iron. Researched online up against another popular cheaper brand, preferred for quality and reputation. Had as my target of choice the Uberti ™ 1873, 24 inch octagonal barrel, .38 – .357 magnum, 12 +1 shot lever gun. List price at around $1,200 US. Sweeeet.
Now, for the rest of the story. A few days back from this posting, there was a large, regional gun and knife show event. So, I figure I’ll go there and peruse the wares, see what I can find because there’s always a few lever guns in a mix of these hundreds of dealers and thousands of firearms in this one building. So, walking around and around (LOADS of Henry lever rifles of all kinds) seeing the occasional lever gun….eh, not what I’m looking for. But wait! What’s that? A 24″ octagonal barrel lever gun on that table? Gotta see that! Oh, um… It’s a Rossi™ M92, same features I’m looking for, the 24″ barrel, 12 + 1 capacity, .38 – .357 caliber, nice looking wood, decent blue finish. Hmm. And less than half the price of the Uberti? Hmmm.
Now, I’ve seen the vids online about this brand, how some think their particular rifle is the cat’s pajamas, and others think they’re utter junk. (Guess which one I wound up with). The guy’s babbling on about it, I’m looking it over, not a scratch, no evidence it’s ever been shot, he’s saying it’s had an ‘action job’. Hard to tell, because show regulations require the actions of every firearm on display to be kept shut. And less than half the price of the Uberti™. Hmm. I’ll get back to you on that. So, an hour later and no other lever guns of that particular description are in the building, as far as I could find. I go back to this guy’s table and tell him ‘let me check that action and I’ll decide if I’ll buy it’. So, he cuts off the tie strap….well, the action is indeed as smooth as warm butter, mighty fine. So, impulse overcomes wisdom and I buy it.
OK, there’s disadvantages to buying at a gun show, advantages as well. On the ‘dis’ side, you can’t work actions, inspect bores, look the thing over or ask if you can run some snap-caps thru the action while standing there until you get right down to the price dickering stage. So, I get home with the new toy and go to run some rounds thru it to see what flavor ammunition it likes best. Well, Ms. Rossi doesn’t like ANY kind…the loading gate is a bear to get rounds thru. And after a few have been fought with long enough to get 4 or 5 into it, working the lever finds that any kind of .357 just WON’T go into chamber without kinking up. Same for most .38’s. And as I cycle the lever, the cartridge extracted just sort of dribbles out of the breech and the last one extracted just lays there? And now I’m rather peeved.
So, ‘action job’ or not, bargain or not, what I have here is 98% useless. The show has packed up and moved on. Let me show you here what to look for if you should ever find a Rossi™ on a table at a gun show or any place else. Make the clown selling it let you work the lever, so that when you have the breech open and can see the bolt face….if you see this below….lay it back on the table and go find another lever gun. That arrow is pointing at the ejector mechanism….which in this case is jammed into the bolt, immovable. Which adds to the ‘slick feeling’ of the action because there’s no resistance pushing the ejector into the bolt face, it’s already jammed in there….but adds to the SICK feeling when you finally notice it after your last cartridge lays in the breech without being ejected as bellow. You can clearly see the extractor hook has the cartridge by the rim, but it’s just sitting there. The only reason all the previous cartridges were ejected was that the cartridge lift mechanism was knocking out the extracted round as the next one was being lifted into place.
So, here we go into the tear-down. This is already going to be a long post, so here’s a link to Rossi disassemble.
You can find a Rossi parts diagram on line like this one with all the generic parts called out by name on Rossi’s website.
Once I had the thing scattered across my workbench, I started inspecting it’s guts. If this ‘action job’ was indeed done (doubtful by a pro, considering the rest of the functionality) there was precious little evidence of any ‘smoothing’ on most surfaces one would typically deal with for ‘smoothness’. Since it does work so smooth, I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt it was done and then cold blued to re-cover the places that were smoothed, but then the dude threw it back together without checking ALL the functions. Taking apart the most obvious culprit first, the bolt and ejector, I find that the ejector (F, G, & H on the diagram) was apparently hammered out of a miniature railroad spike. What a friggin’ joke for quality control, major burrs on EVERY SURFACE and there is a spring and collar that’s supposed to ride on this shaft?! My driveway is smoother than that shaft.
In the right hand pic of the ejector you can see a worn smooth spot where the spring collar was doing it’s own ‘smoothing job’ on that shaft opposite side of that tail hook in the center above the flat section. And yet another burr on the back side of the ejector head. The ejector rod, spring and collar are all supposed to slide freely assembled like we see here, from Trey Wall’s video.
See how the little collar around the shaft is captured by the hook ( capital letter I in that diagram ) attached to the bolt body? That collar has to freely slide on that shaft, and it stays in place when the bolt / lever link pin is installed thru the hole in the left side of the bolt as you see above. This spring is another that these marketed D.I.Y. slick-up kits commonly have in them, a softer one that makes the final 1/4″ of bolt travel ‘smoother’ because it takes less effort.
All this crapola had to be dealt with, the burrs on every surface of the ejector that has to work within the bolt (and deal with the bolt’s own burrs inside and out, as well) and the insane roughness of the shaft had to be polished out, nice and smooth, which required it seemed like a dozen test fit assembly trials into the bolt and action with the lever linked up to see if the ejector would finally work. Whew. So now it’s looking and working like it’s supposed to when you inspect the bolt face. The two fingers towards the elevator lever are supposed to help grab / feed the cartridge into the chamber, and that’s the next feature of this overhaul.
As you can see here at the left, the lower lip of the chamber is as rough as any other lack of finish place in this particular rifle. This makes any other bullet type beyond a heavy crimp, round nose, .38 type round difficult to insert into the chamber because of the rough and edgy surface it has to travel over to enter the chamber. That round you see in there is a hand loaded dummy, I made several up for this project so that good, live ammo wasn’t going to be hacked up by this experimental process, requiring running thru this mess untold numbers of times until it all actually works.
Now that all the works, other than the immobile guide fingers are out of the guts of this rifle, I can reach the chamber lips with a half-round rifle file, working the bottom of the rim until I have polished and smoothed the ORIGINAL FACE of the chamber lip, going NO further into it than that original factory cut. Coming in from underneath from the trigger area, just working that little area, nice and smooth. If you go beyond that factory profile ‘rough cut’ in this case, you will be getting into the chamber space and causing potentially BAD problems with head space, gas blow-back and all kind of other stuff you don’t want happening to your potentially (after all this work) nice lever gun.
With that done, the chamber lip now has a nice smooth, burr free ramp to take whatever bullet configuration or cartridge type, .38 or .357, that comes at it.
Now, on to the loading gate and all it’s problems. You see here the extent you could shove a cartridge into this thing before I redid this segment. Right there, the rim of the cartridge is STOPPED COLD by an absolutely square, rough and poorly done surface that the cartridge is forced up against by the loading gate, and adding to the finger pain is the sharp edged hole of the loading gate. Before modification, you had to use extreme finger pressure in two directions at once, forcing the gate cover down to the max and trying to get the rim past this barrier. Even using the old poke the cartridge in with the next one in line won’t work with this kind of opposition.
So, this is what you have to deal with, this square faced barrier that is NOT letting any cartridge rim past without extreme hassle as you attempt to force any type into it, .38 or .357.
Happens that I had a Dremel™ stone that was just the size of a cartridge. Masked the area heavily with tape in case of a ‘boo-boo’ with a live power tool / stone for protection of the finish on the receiver body. With this and some more working with the half-round rifle file, we now have a far more cooperative face for the cartridges to get past.
Now, ain’t that purty compared to that original edge? All nice and round, cooperative and easy to work with. I also slightly rounded off all the sharp edges of the hole that will argue with my fingers as I stuff ammo into this thing. You can even see the magazine follower underneath. That was the ONLY evidence I found of anyone being into this rifle before me, as the ‘real’ Rossi followers are a cheap yellow plastic plug that tends to bind from all the chips and crud sometimes left in the mag tube at the Rossi factory.
I have seen some accounts of the Rossi loading gate falling apart on some owners. Inspection shows a cheaply done ‘rivet’ idea to hold the gate to the spring. The arrow points to where I used a center punch to peen out the head, on both sides, so that it may fit a bit tighter in place. If you do this, be SURE you have the opposite side surface flat on your anvil before you whack it with a punch and hammer, as you see it laying here, lower left picture. Otherwise you may break it when you whack it. It must NOT bend during the process. I speculate that these folks who have broken a gate may have had to use such force to load the thing that it bent at the ‘rivet’ and forced it thru the hole, separating the two pieces. While I had the gate off, I smoothed the flat end of it and amplified just a tiny bit of the radius of the spoon shape of it’s face. Also did a bit of spring modification to ease the insertion effort. If you do this to your gate spring, the edges of the area you have ground on must be returned to perfectly smooth, otherwise any rough surface could eventually foster a crack, and break.
So, after several hours of filing, sanding, smoothing, assembling and disassembling, thus becoming very familiar with it’s innards, the Rossi M92 will take ‘most’ .357 ammo I offered it. The group on the right, below, all fed and cycled with no hesitation or maybe just a little jiggling of the lever. The two on the left…nope. The extreme left is a CorBon™ specialty round, which is way too long. The next to it, a hand load that doesn’t have a firm enough crimp to suit the Rossi, so the edge of the case mouth snags on that brilliantly done chamber mouth ramp, that I may have to do yet more beveling on. I don’t think it will ever take a CorBon however. By the way, that second from the right hand end cartridge, that nickel one….that’s the joker that typically fails in your lever gun where the case splits around that cannelure in the middle of the body, leaving half the case stuck in your chamber, rendering the rifle useless until you can get that piece out. So, I’m using this type ONLY in my revolvers until I cull out all that type from my ammo & brass supplies by shooting it.
Well, there you have it, what it takes to get a wrong end of the scale Rossi (compared to those that do work well, by reports) up to par. Now, off to the range to see how well it actually shoots, now that it will finally take ammo. Then we decide if it will be graced with a scout scope mounted on one of these rails from Pearson’s no drill scope rails.
This Rossi may climb back up my ‘firearms social ladder’ and be near equal to my American made Winchester 94 Trapper, shown here in ‘Cowboy Assault Weapon’ attire.
But it’s got some reputation to overcome at this point before it gets anywhere near that. Don’t let this article turn you off altogether on a Rossi…..just look for these kind of faults and run some snap caps thru it before you buy it. You may have a great one without having to do a thing to it.
Found this useful page about ‘weeds’ as useful food source / medicinal uses, by Holli Richey, her article.
Originally posted on whole idea healing:
Depending on one’s perspective, when lamb’s quarters volunteers itself in your yard, garden or field, it’s either a welcome wild vegetable or an unwelcome weed. Scientific research takes one side or the other: either it is a promising plant for world food security and an excellent way to clean up toxically contaminated sites, or it’s a weed for which people develop new herbicides to eradicate.
Lamb’s quarters (Chenopodium album), also called white goosefoot and fat hen, is an introduced Eurasian species found in most of North America, and is related to the Andean quinoa grain (C. quinoa). Its upper diamond-shaped leaves look as though they’ve been dusted with white powder, and the stem of the more mature plant is vertically striped yellow, green and fuchsia. This annual prefers sunny, moist, cultivated soils; however, it can also grow through gravel, demonstrating its tolerance for difficult, abusive situations.
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Updated my Kelly Kettle review, new links, added videos.
Originally posted on Surviving Urban Crisis:
In my opinion, survival gear should be as robust as possible for durability, because you don’t want an item breaking in a survival situation. You want it as simple to operate as possible. The more versatility the thing has, the more value it has. And in the category of survival stoves and cooking gear, I find the Kelly Kettle places well in all these criteria.
The Kelly Kettle has a long history in Ireland, way back to the 1890’s, the design basically unchanged although the material of construction has changed to lightweight aluminum. Seems the concept came from the Kelly family’s venture as fishing guides, brewing up hot tea for their customers around Lough Conn, which is famous for its free rising brown trout and fresh run Salmon from the River Moy system. They would gather up sticks, twigs, dry grass and have a quart of water boiling very…
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Last month, I made a posting about applying ‘gas checks‘ to cast lead bullets. Now we’ll go over how to actually make the gas check discs that I use in the manufacturing of that type bullet. I mentioned in the previous posting that you could buy ‘factory made’ gas check discs from a few places online. But, just as in casting and loading your own lead bullets frees you from dependence on the sometimes ‘iffy’ market supplying factory made bullets, making your own gas checks for your ammo loads is just one more thing you can be self reliant on.
As far as I know, there are only a couple of sources for do it yourself gas check disc making tools. One seems to be occupied by a guy who probably does make a good item….but has NO people skills, blowing his top over customers merely inquiring a couple weeks after the order was placed, as to the status of the unit ordered and the possible shipping date, only one time annnd….BOOM! Here’s your @#%#&&*@ money back! BLAH BLAH BLAH! Oookaaay then, well so much for doing business there, I reckon. The other manufacturer that I mentioned last month, the ‘FreeChex’ tool, sold through ‘GunBroker.com‘ or direct from the maker, seems a little less under pressure or something.
So, you order your tool to fit your particular bullet caliber. As of today there were 224,30, 357,41,44,45 caliber models available on the gunbroker site. If you need a custom size, check with the freechex website. When your tool arrives you get these 3 pieces:
You can see the tiny slot pretty well above. When in action you use an arbor press, preferably, to punch out and form the disc, which goes down into the hollow portion of the cutting tube, which has the spring around it shown above. I have used my Lee Precision single stage loading press for this operation, but it’s kind of harsh on the tool, because there’s little control over how far the thing travels as you work it, which could damage the tool in the long run. I have access to a machinists lathe, so I made the following adapter from a bit of aluminum bar stock, so that I can continuously punch out discs which fall out through the center of my ‘adapter’.
The adapter I made isn’t crucial to operating the punch, but it’s way more convenient than having to stop and empty the tube frequently during a production run. I’m sure, if you’re independent enough to be loading your own ammunition, you can probably come up with something to accomplish the same process. I bought a cheap Chinese made arbor press from Harbor Freight Tools near my home, but you can no doubt order one online or locate one somewhere. My adapter fits nicely into one of the 4 press slots on the unit.
I made this batch of gas checks from some left over aluminum roofing flashing that just happened to be the correct thickness of .010″. I cut the sheet into 1″ x 10″ strips as you can see on the left side of the press above. You can see a punched out strip on the right. I’ve found that a one inch wide strip works best for handling and quality of product. I strongly suggest using gloves while working with this process, because as the discs are punched out, the remaining material becomes like razor wire and will trap and stab your fingers mercilessly.
You will find it necessary to hold the strip against the back side of the punch slot to keep your discs consistent and usable, as shown above. As you develop an ‘eye’ for the positioning of the material, you’ll be able to get the maximum number of discs per strip. I can get up to about 40 discs per 10″ long strip most of the time.
As you see above, the punched out discs leave wicked sharp, pointed edges that will absolutely eat your hands, stabbing you and trapping your skin between the points at the slightest touch. The gloves are practically mandatory, unless your just enjoy personal pain and blood. At the bottom of the press you can see a top from some spray paint or lubricant can that is handily catching the discs as the fall down the tube. As you punch the discs, you must press the punch down completely, but ‘gently’ after the initial resistance so that the discs will be properly pushed out.
I went through about 16 strips of 1″ x 10″ material in just a bit over an hour, making about 600 or so discs. At the retail price of about 4 cents each, that’s about $24 worth of product.
You may calculate this punching setup was about $150 all together, and it does seem pricey until you consider it an investment, just like the Lee Precision turret loading machine. It frees me from dependance on the unstable market supply of crucial components, and as we’ve seen over the past months, supplies of items like ammo can be really scarce even without some kind of large crisis. Even during this long term ammo shortage, I’ve been lucky enough to find gunpowder, primers and either cast my own or buy bullets. The most hard to find item is the brass cartridge cases. When I go to the range for a little practice, I carefully pick up all my fired casings, and usually ask the range people if they have any used brass for sale, which occasionally happens.
Roll your own, save a ton of cash and become independent of the system a little more. Your are responsible for compliance with local laws and ordinances concerning firearms and ammunition. Failure to follow reloading instructions carefully can lead to personal injury and / or death. Pay attention, get away from the kids, no TV in your loading room, check, check and recheck your procedures, inspect, inspect and inspect your loading components, check your cartridge brass for cracks and damages that your press doesn’t remove, make sure the primers are seated correctly, double check your powder charge in each load with your scale.
Keep prepping, my friends….might save your life.
Well, compared to the rest of my postings, the ‘political’ department is less occupied with postings, because although I do closely follow the political ineptitude of Washington, DC, I feel it’s kind of redundant to rehash what anyone interested in the base subject of this blog page should already know. But sometimes, you know, you just have to say something.
The news, as always, is full of terrorists, economic shakiness, energy concerns, ‘global warming’, fanning the racial divide, all that usual stuff. But, the thing that keeps poking me is the undeniably obvious fact that this bunch of morons in DC has willingly, deliberately and directly caused the southern border, and the northern as well, I suspect, to become a joke, a parody of ‘security’, and a serious endangerment to the lives of millions of Americans through the unrestrained, for any practical purpose, free passage of millions of illegals to cross the border at will. This administration continues to trash the Constitution and rule of law, or any respect for it, is derelict of duty and responsibility and oath of office for the potential political gain of said illegals becoming democrat voters through his acts of unilaterally granting amnesty to them. That aside, along with this massive flow of potential future democrat party voters, are hundreds of thousands of people from every country on the planet. And among those have been thousands from nations and areas of the world that are openly hostile and at war against America. These are the illegals that concern me most. For the information of any liberal who happened to stumble onto this blog and this particular posting, I am NOT anti-immigrant. Anyone wishing to become an American citizen, done the LEGAL way is as welcome as any natural born citizen in my book.
This lack of concern, no actually more than likely a deliberate act of sabotage, for this border situation, lays the belly of this nation and millions of citizens bare for the gutting of our infrastructure, particularly the power grid. Our rail transportation network, like everything else is old and outdated in many ways. Out petroleum pipelines, expressway systems, air traffic control…..so much stuff that could cause major disruption of life and mobility of goods and people. But the grid, that is the most delicate of all systems that could endanger the most citizens. All intertwined, but supposedly ‘independent’, sections that have no security at power plants or major substations whatsoever. While you drive around America, you’ve seen those large, fenced in sub stations, without a soul around. Perhaps you may remember some time back when there was a ‘vandalism attack’ on a California large sub-station? They put down this massive sub-station with a mere hunting rifle, shooting holes into the transformers, letting the toxic cooling oils leak out to overheat and shut down the units. They rerouted the power around this damaged station, so power was available to the citizens….but it took almost a month to repair. Now, the terrorists, domestic, izlamic <(that’s deliberate) or otherwise are out there formulating a plan based on this successful venture. Power plants themselves are larger, have people around (unarmed, I’ll wager) but a squad of terrorists could deal with it pretty easily, and get away clean before any cops arrive. Or maybe they’ll do a suicide kind of thing that muzlims <(again, deliberate) are so fond of, and just hang out for the resulting battle with the authorities for the ‘glory of alla’ and more damage to the power plant while that goes on. That kind of damage could take years to repair, meanwhile the thing is totally out of commission or crippled so badly that it’s hardly of any use to the citizens energy needs. Now, imagine that a coordinated attack on say, a dozen sub stations and / or one or two major power stations. Do you not think this would seriously jeopardize millions of American lives? A ‘dirty bomb’ in downtown NYC would be pretty nasty, killing who knows how many thousands and be an uninhabitable spot for the next century. But the grid, I think, is a much easier target and would do far greater harm to a vastly larger area. Avoiding NYC is bad enough damage, but if the entire state of NY was blacked out for months, in the middle of winter, what would that do to the people directly effected, and the national economy? And what part of society doesn’t require the grid to work?
When (or IF) the ‘authorities’ are grilled about this lack of security, they bluster and huff, and spout their usual lies or half truths at best, assuring (lying to) America that it’s ‘all under control’ or ‘we are addressing the issue’.
My readers, you folks are far more aware of the world around you than the average smart phone addict, by far. That kind of awareness is why we’re preppers. Nonetheless, I say that we all need to double down on preps, form our groups or expand them, and get ready for some frisky business that may likely happen before the next presidential election….if we have one.
An item I have put in my prepping inventory, $15 off with ‘free shipping’, is the Auagason Farms Emergency food pail, 30 days, 1 person. I intend to add more of these as quickly as possible. From BJ’s Cub online, I don’t have any idea how long that price will be there. I don’t get a dime for recommending this product and I put it here as something I personally have in my own stuff. Food, Fire and Water all in the same bucket, so it fits my personal preference of maximum versatility survival gear or supplies. You can of course build your own survival buckets, but this BJ item gets you there much quicker than a DIY project.
To paraphrase a certain beer commercial….keep prepping, my friends. It may save your life.
If you’re now getting into reloading your ammunition and casting your own lead bullets, here’s some useful information on taking your home made bullets up to the next level of velocity, approaching the speeds of full metal jacketed ‘factory bullets’.
The problem one faces when trying to push lead bullets faster and faster out your weapon barrel is that the greater velocity is achieved by larger powder loads (and different powders as well) placed into your cartridge as the reloading process is accomplished. The greater the pressure of the burning gases generated as the firing of the round happens pushes the bullet faster, but the typical lead bullet will begin to melt around the edges as this massive gas burst shoves the bullet out the barrel, with the flame of gas pushing by the bullet in the grooves of the barrel. This melted lead is left in the barrel, accumulating with every bullet fired in that same situation. Soon, the accuracy is compromised and the leading problem accelerates.
Some clever shooter in the past came up with an idea of swaging a thin cap of harder metal than lead onto the bottom of the bullet to ‘take the heat’ so that the bullet could be successfully pushed faster without the melting problem leaving lead streaks inside the barrel. These ‘caps’ are called gas checks. The metal, around .010″ thick, is shaped into a disc as it’s punched out of the thin sheet of copper or aluminum.
The closeup picture above shows some of my .357 magnum bullet gas checks. These can be purchased for about 3 or 4 cents each from online reloading suppliers, or if you wish maximum independence you can use a ‘Freechex‘ punch and die and make your own from aluminum or copper flashing material from Home Depot.
The bullet above, from Lee precision, is a .357 lead, semi-wadcutter, specifically designed as you see, to have a gas check disc added to it’s base, with a nice little recessed base that the gas check cup fits into nicely as the bullet is sized, passing through the sizing die, giving us consistent diameter bullets.
However as you see in the next picture above, the base of this hollow point lead bullet, also that started out as a Lee precision lead bullet mold, has a beveled base that is NOT intended to have a gas check added to it in the normal processing of the cartridge assembly. So, what to do? We need sufficient velocity for a hollow point bullet to do it’s thing, expanding as intended for maximum effect. We do ‘bullet modification’!
The gas check is the correct diameter to work with any .357 cast bullet, but the trick is in the base design of the bullet. That means we’ll need to adapt the gas check to a bullet that was never really intended to have one.
So, we place the hollow point bullet base into a gas check cup, and gently tap it into place, the idea being to seat it nice and squarely on the base of the bullet. I’m not too worried about damaging my bullet, because I quench my cast bullets in water as they come out of my molds. This makes them hard as possible….and I’m not pounding on them, just gentle little taps.
Then I lubricate the bullet very well using my case lubing pad and generous amounts of that lubricant. I wear a latex glove on my left hand while handling bullets and lube to avoid the lead and the case lube is rather sticky and nasty after a while.
Then I place the bullet, base up, on the ram of my Lee sizing die, and push it up through the die.
This changes the gas check from this: Where you can plainly see the gas check just sitting on the base of the bullet, to as we see in the next picture, an almost invisible, very well swaged on aluminum base on this bullet, successfully going onto the next step of lubrication later on.
This now allows this bullet, after the next steps of lubrication (by the ‘pan’ method) and loading, to be fired much faster, going from around 800 feet per second with no leading to around 1,200 feet per second, or better, still without leading up the barrel.